Friday, 4 July 2008

To Cha Ca La Vong For Some Cha Ca

Touted as a bit of a Hanoi institution, this one dish restaurant was high on the list of must trys when we were in the city. Jo and I had already made it across Indochina in one piece by ourselves (the rest having left us to our own devices for the comfort of KL). We even managed to get from Hanoi airport to the hotel safely (not terribly hard since we had already arranged for a car beforehand - thank heavens for tripadvisor.com!) but as soon as stepped out of our hotel, we were almost tripping over ourselves in panic :) Perhaps we should have wandered out when it was still light but the comfort of the air-condition and internet in the room was just too much of a lure to stay in. But we made it out eventually and walked straight into the chaos that makes Hanoi's Old Quarter a gem. Motorcycles coming from every direction, pavements blocked by parked motorbikes, incessant hooting .... ohhh a nightmare, especially if you've just arrived from the sleepy backwater that is Siem Reap!
Grumpy and hungry, Jo and I stumbled upon Cha Ca Street and a few feet away from dinner! The restaurant is tiny but we were ushered up a flight of creaky stairs (it creaked so badly I didn't know if I should just leg it up or close my eyes, pray really hard, hold my weight and creep up very, VERY slowly). The floorboards upstairs weren't any better but hey... if it manages to hold so many people for this long, I guess I really don't have much to worry about. Seated, we were pushed a piece of paper that said something along the lines of 'We only serve one dish Cha Ca' along with the price - which I can't remember. Something laughably low if you have foreign cash to spend.
Within minutes of us nodding to the man who had to make sure we really did want to eat Cha Ca, a little charcoal fired stove was brought to us with a pan of sizzling fish in oil. We also got a plate of bun (cold vermicelli noodles), peanuts, chopped red chillies, nuoc cham (a dipping sauce made with lime, fish sauce, sugar, chili and water) and two huge piles of herbs. The man then starts stirring our fish that is still sizzling madly in the saffron tempered oil while throwing lots of herbs in from the first pile he brought over of mainly spring onions and dill. After a few stirs, the man seems satisfied the herbs had cooked down and points to the noodles and condiments he brought over earlier and then to an empty bowl. That's our cue to tuck in. Noodles in, peanuts, chillies, herbs (coriander, mint, basil and even more dill this time), fish, lots of oil and nuoc nam over the top. It was good and it was interesting... but dare I say it? I over-anticipated this place and it let me down. This is awful... I sound terrible but I did really want it to be very good. It was quite an experience and really quite fun but ohhhh the dampening of the spirit ........!

Cambodian Eats - Cambodia part 4

I must admit I didn't fall in love with Cambodian food. It has all the flavour I love - garlic, lime juice, chillies, fish sauce - but I found something lacking... not sure if I can put my finger on it. But perhaps I wasn't looking beyond the tourist mould?I'll have give it another go at some point.

Nhom kra-oa ch'rook - lotus root salad from the FCC Angkor hotel restaurant - the Angkor Kitchen. An interesting dish on the menu but sadly uninspiring on the plate. According to the menu, there was supposed to be caramelised pork, smoked shrimp, fried shallots in a hot and sour dressing. The chunks of lotus root did come with beansprouts, dried (rather than smoked?) shrimp and nuggets of .. dried-out pork. Tang came from the squeeze of lime which came with the dish but other than that, the flavours were flat - if any at all.

Apparently the 'national dish' of Cambodia (up there with Amok), the Angkor Kitchen's version of Lok Lak Saich Go was delicious!Well marinated, tender slices of beef in a sweet, salty 'Cambodian bbq' with a fried egg on top served with a steamed rice and a little serving of 'mixed sauce'. Where lok lak tasted bland and almost .. lifeless at the other places I tried it, the flavours were bursting forth here with the other important factor of some very good meat. And here is where my problem probably lies... the need of flavour. A tongue brought up on too much of the good life? :) Pricewise, this dish (jazzed up for foreign taste buds?) did set me back a whole lot more than if we had headed to a local restaurant down the road. What the heck... I loved this it!

The others picked an assortment of non-Khmer dishes. Here is a very bad photo (sorry!) of the grilled sirloin with dauphinoise potato, green beans and optional sauce of mushroom and something else which I cannot remember.

The Chinese poached chicken with lime and coriander rice dumplings, spring onion and ginger sambal. I don't think my mother was terrible impressed with the dumplings as she ended ordering a separate bowl of rice - which in Angkor Kitchen terms was the Steamed Battambang rice with roasted coconut (not pictured).

I've been racking my brains for the name of this restaurant but I still can't remember it. But it's located 5 doors down from Khmer Kitchen on the same street. First up, Banana Flower Salad. I know the Malays at home eat the banana flower but I don't believe I've ever had any. This was rather yummy with lots of herbs and other crunchy vegetables. Rather like a Thai style salad.

For those who are totally indecisive on which Amok (normally fish steamed in a thick coconut based curry but with the hordes of tourists, one can have this dish with different meats or go vegetarian) to go for, have the Amok Degustation. The five little banana leaf wrapped parcels contain fish, chicken, pork, beef and vegetables. Interesting concept but after a while it gets a little boring sampling bits of meat, then fish, then a bit of veg - all cooked in the same sauce. For 6 people, we did have a whole lot more dishes but I soon learnt that every restaurant we went to in Cambodia and Vietnam had pretty dim lighting, which meant plenty of very fuzzy photos! Yup, these were the best of the lot! :(

Dessert! We must be truly indecisive people :) One of the desserts up was the Sorbet Degustation. This was definitely more interesting than the Amok Degustation! Sorbet flavours from the top: lime (which was lip smacking-ly sour ... lovely!!), passion fruit (not a favourite of mine as I'm not keen on the fruit), coconut (rich), mango (yummy!) and pear (pretty good).

Grilled Bananas with a palm sugar and coconut caramel sauce was very tasty. The palm sugar gave the caramel a very tasty twist and the coconut cream made it nicely thick and luscious. The bananas were the little ones and full of flavour but I did get a unripe piece - yuck! I hate the texture and taste of bananas that haven't fully ripen (I actually prefer my bananas with nice big brown spots with any lingering green bits long gone).

Breakfast on our last day in Cambodia. As part of our B&B deal with the hotel, we got to choose from a selected breakfast menu. I chose the breakfast panini with scrambled eggs, bacon and drizzled with lemon oil. A little oily but very tasty. Although I like lots of flavour in my food, I really dislike the strong smell/taste of pork. I say this with some embarrassment as I was brought up on a strong diet of pork (the Chinese love their pork!) and I do love it but just not all pork dishes. I tend to stay away from pork chops, pork scratchings and now...the bacon pictured above. Thickly sliced, it was bacon in all it's pork-y glory but just a little too much for me :)

A bowl of mixed fruit with cubes of watermelon, pineapple, apple and dragonfruit (which I find .. I'm tempted to say pointless ... but let's instead go with bland and tasteless). Unless it's cut up into tiny bits and mixed in with other fruit, I'm not inclined to eating it. Jo, on the other, rather enjoyed dragonfruit and I gave her mine.

Chocolate Brownie from The Blue Pumpkin cafe in Siem Reap town right by the market square. It was a nice brownie with a touch of coffee coming through (too much as addicted chocoholic Jo proclaimed- who unsurprisingly dislikes coffee). On our first day in Cambodia, we wandered down to the cafe and Edwin (another of our party) bought a croissant which was oh sooo good! But the day we went back to stock up on goodies for our trip to Vietnam, the displayed baked goods were swarmed with flies and I wasn't going to take a chance and opted for a pre-packaged brownie.


Thursday, 3 July 2008

Temples Galore - Cambodia part 3

Angkor Wat at sunset, on a slightly overcast evening

What would a visit to Siem Reap be without a few temples thrown in? To be honest, I didn't read up on anything before leaving on this trip, which I usually do - I liked to be prepared. But I wasn't the tour guide as I usually am when I go away with Stuart so even now, weeks later, I am still a little clueless on what a few of these temples are. They are terribly beautiful, photograph amazingly well and I was definitely in awe :)

Early morning, Angkor Wat

Bayon - beautifully chaotic architecture

Bayon - of many faces

Banteay Srey - pink is for girls! -"Citadel of the Women"

Ta Prohm - of ancient trees

Ta Prohm - entrance to ancient Khmer civilization

Banteay Kdei - across the moat to the inner sanctuary

Banteay Kdei - inner sanctuary

Angkor Wat in the distance - as the crowds ascend Phnom Bakheng for sunset - no such luck -rain!

Sunday, 15 June 2008

Cambodia part 2

Famished from our journey and early wake up call, we headed into town for some food. Dropped off at Khmer Kitchen - recommended by our driver - the restaurant is located right next to the old market and bang in the middle of the popular, touristy pub street area. The restaurant itself is unpretentious with it's wicker chairs and patterned cotton tablecloths. However, it was 11 in the morning and it was deserted - the lights were off and the staff were sitting at the tables chatting amongst themselves. It did become livelier after we went in - a pre-booked party of about 25, mostly middle aged bikers from the UK, (that's the normal paddle bicycle, not the motor powered kind ;) walked in. A mini bikers trip methinks.

We started our meal with steamed vegetarian Khmer dumplings and some fried spring rolls (haha no, I don't think they are particularly Cambodian but we just couldn't resist!). The skin for the dumplings, made from rice flour, were on the thick side and the inside was stuffed with fried garlic chives (gau choy in Cantonese, which has flat leaves). The flavour was good but it was a little too doughy for my liking. The spring rolls were the standard sort you find anywhere and nothing to write home about.

The mains on the menu were meant to be shared and they cook most dishes to your choice of meat, seafood or vegetables. I suppose this makes it all very flexible but not very traditional. We had Khmer curry with pork - a thin coconut based stew, heavily flavoured with cinnamon, with thin slices of pork, chunks of potato, carrots and sweet potato. It was rather good and we could smell this cooking as we walked into the restaurant earlier. Behind it the Khmer curry in the picture was the fish stew with coconut milk, which (judging from my memory of it) wasn't particularly memorable.


Stir fried minced pork with beansprouts - tasty but again not great. I'm sure this dish was called something else on the menu but being the usual scatterbrain (despite my best intentions! ;), i didn't write any of the names down (I still don't).

A firm favourite - the long bean salad with mince pork. Not your typical salad, mind you. It was served warm to hot -fresh out of the pan :) Flavours were good with the usual suspects of fish sauce, garlic and lime juice mingling with good ol' porky juices :) and the vegetables (long beans and thin strips of carrot) crunchy.

On the way out of the restaurant, we saw this woman selling roasted sweet potatoes from her little push cart. I believe she also sold roasted bananas.

There was also this un-manned stall with dried and drying cockles. In typical tourist fashion there was a chorus of 'arghhhhhhh!!!' from us. Though there wasn't anyone at this stall while we were there, I did see quite a few other dried cockle stalls during our stay and quite a few shells on the ground. A local favourite, then. There was also a bottle of sauce at the stall, which I assume goes with the cockles but in that boiling mid-day sun ... I do wonder how safe the stuff is. Yes, yes, TOURIST!

Thursday, 12 June 2008

Cambodia (non-foodie) part 1

Cambodia, wow!

Approaching Siem Reap (that's Tonle Sap - the world's largest freshwater lake at the top of the photo)

Before going I wasn't quite sure what to expect. I had sat through classes at university and wrote papers on the Khemer Rouge and Khemer life after the atrocities but what would it really be like? And I think 'wow!' says it all. To be fair I didn't see huge amounts of the country..really a tiny bit of Siem Reap and some surrounding areas but I definitely loved what I saw. Despite the boom in tourism in recent years, there is still an amazing charm about the place and the people. To think how I 'ooo' and 'ahhhhhhh'-ed and 'emmmmm'-ed before deciding on Cambodia when I was planning this trip (as Jo decided to let me plan the majority of the trip - being from the region and all... for good or bad... I think it all turned out pretty well in the end :) Now having been there I would jump at the chance of going back..yes, definitely!

Padi/Paddy fields

How did we (myself, Jo, my mum, my sister - Candice, and her 2 friends Edwin and Way Cheng) get there? On the disgustingly early morning flight from Kuala Lumpur - Siem Reap at 7am. Yup, one of those budget airlines where you have to wake up at 3am to get to the airport and everything that can be considered 'comfort' is an optional extra :) Want to be the first 10 people to board the plane? Cough up the dough! Other than all that hoop-la it was a comfortable flight - sunny skies and minimal turbulence all the way.


Upon arrival -watch as all the cameras emerge. Haha yes, they were taking pictures with the plane! Is it a remarkable aircraft? Well, I didn't think so - it's a plane! But what I did find remarkable was the airport building, it was a beauty! I've seen (and stayed at) nastier looking holiday resorts! High ceilings, sandstone statues, even a large fishpond and a manicured garden in the courtyard. And for such a little, developing country they sure do have some sophisticated immigration hardware! But beware - all this is charged to passengers departing on international flights from the airport at a rate of US$25. Pretty steep I thought.

Picked up by the FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club) hotel driver, we were given lovely cool (scented with jasmine) towels to freshen up with as we were driven to the hotel - the long way - via Angkor Wat. I thought the approach was lovely - the tall trees, the quiet-ish road - and suddenly the famous towers of Angkor are in front of you. Surrounded by the moat, and the slow pace of life, it is really is quite tranquil (just ignore the constant beeps of the tuk-tuks). No pictures I'm afraid - still slightly rusty at the whole 'touristy' thing, I didn't whip out my camera fast enough. I did 'ooh' and 'ahh' alot though :D


Our hotel is in town - the former summer residence of the French governor- and by the river. Thank heavens we stayed away from the larger hotels, all which are situated by 'Airport Road' - a hot, dusty and much too commercially driven stretch. The FCC has 30 rooms in total making it very pleasant. The staff were really friendly and the rooms were lovely. All very 'boutique'. A perfect base for lots of temple visits. More on that coming up soon!

Monday, 9 June 2008

One last meal at .... Delicious


One last feeding before we headed out to the wilderness... one last meal... and where better than at Delicious? I totally have an obsession with this place! Yes, the food is not bad... bordering on pretty good... hey, I'm a pessimist...but there's something about Delicious I really like.


Maybe it's the oversize cushions they have or the pretty decor with the clean colours of white, aqua and terquoise - so soothing ... or maybe it's the damn yummy cakes they have. Calorie-fest confections that always brings a smile to my face.


Today we were after solid food - the sodium loaded sort. First up though- drinks. Jo ordered a strawberry smoothie, which was a blend of strawberries, milk and ice. Or was perhaps there was ice-cream in there...definitely a cream/milk base. She seemed pretty happy with it, though I suspect she wasn't aware it would be that creamy. I had a mango and kaffir lime smoothie... and I cannot rave about enough! An icy mango concoction comes near to ice heaven for me but throw in some kaffir lime leaves and it takes it to another level. A whole new playing field. A lime twist without the sourness. If you look closely you can see the little green specks of the leaves.


Jo's order of a steak sandwich came with a small side salad and fries. Shoe-string fries....emm..oily, crunch goodness. We had ordered another portion of fries (not knowing her sandwich would have fries - no, it doesn't say in the menu) but it never came. One huge problem with Delicious - service is hit and miss...mostly a miss though. The place has been over about 3-4 years now and it's still a problem..shame. Anyway, being little piggies that we are ;) we just had to have that portion of fries that never arrived and ordered another. It was good. Thin, hot and crispy..with a little bowl of aioli.

The sandwich was pretty good. Steak cooked medium-well done, closer to well done ...with sauteed onions and grain mustard.


My order of chicken salad was real disappointment. Grilled chicken served with a salad of spinach, dried cranberries, avocado and some sort of home made potato crisps - sweet potato? Sounds alright, taste wasn't so alright. The thick dressing was very heavy on dried herbs or should I say herb - rosemary perhaps? I normally like my herbs - I've been known to be overly generous in my use of coriander but dried herbs is really a different matter! Rosemary no less! The dressing was also too thick and from the photo you can see how some leaves have a tad more dressing than others. Sigh ... weeks after this and I'm still disappointed. Good thing I had my brilliant mango smoothie to keep me happy :D

Saturday, 7 June 2008

Good food, bad food and food I miss...

Here's a sight I miss when I go to a supermarket in London - the abundance of greenary in the vegetable section! Vegetables in Chinatown don't really match up ... mainly because I'm going to have to pay a bagazillion times more for one measly bunch :)


I know I was on holiday but I couldn't resist cooking. I was actually looking forward to it...itching to get my hands on some raw ingrediants and creating a mini feast...a nice salad ;) There Jo and I had been in KL all of 3 days and we had eaten our way through quite a lot of food. And I mean ALOT of food! Big Chinese meals with my father, meals with my mum, snacking with friends, secret cake trips to Delicious... hehe... well, it had taken a toll on us and I just wanted a nice, 'clean' salad. So here we have it - Thai inspired seared beef salad.


The usual salad greens with de-seeded tomatoes, cucumber, red onion and lots of herbs - mint, coriander, Thai sweet basil, lemon grass. The dressing was made with lots of garlic, lime juice and zest, Thai sweet chili sauce and oil. Pretty simple stuff but lots of cutting. The beef was a thick juicy rump steak ... my sister laughed when I told her I had bought rump... what do people have against rump? I rather like it..price wise ;) and taste and yes, even texture wise. I seared the beef in a hot pan without any oil... perhaps I could have cooked it a while longer as it was still rather red in the middle. Yes, red as in the cow has JUST moo-ed it's last 'moooooooo' :D Red enough for my sister to stick her portion in the microwave for a few seconds...


Bad food.... McDonald's nuggets! I like McDonald's nuggets...just not these ones. Feeling a little peckish after our 'clean' salad, Jo and I headed to a 24 hour McDonald's at 2am. Food-wise...what a waste of time!!! If they keep a store open the whole day, they could at least serve some semi-decent food! The nuggets had obviously been cooked some time ago and had been sitting around for some time. The fries were limp and dry and cold... but I wasn't up to complaining and just ate it..haha...I wasn't going to leave it!!!

Yup, the next day we just went and stuffed ourselves even more with my sister :) It was a 'bit of this and a bit of that' lunch, which means we end up with wayyyyyyyyy more food than we can ever eat. Some yong tau foo, which means stuffed beancurd but today translates to ... anything you can stuff with fish paste. Here we can see some (left-right) bittergourd/bittermelon, pork balls below it, deep fried tofu, deep fried fresh tofu and aubergine/brinjal/eggplant below.



I can never resist pork balls (which aren't actually stuffed with any fish paste but it's always to have some non-stuffed food on the menu) and just had to have some. The non-fried tofu in the soup was to make us feel better about ourselves. Cheating our little brains into thinking that we were eating good, healthy food ;) And of course some good deep fried beancurd sheets..to make up for our portion of healthy tofu! Don't worry... we did also have a 2 person portion of wat tan mai fun (deep fried rice vermicelli with an egg-y sauce of vegetables, meat and seafood) and some 'side dishes' from the 'mix rice' stall. Those photos came out really blurred so I won't bother posting them.


With all that food we just had to go walk it all off, so off we went shopping at Pavilion. I'm still sore from the fact my beautiful old school was pulled down for this monstrosity but the shops are rather good and makes for good browsing, espcially when there's hardly anyone around. But energy levels do drop and for a 'little pick me up' we headed to a little cafe specializing in matcha (Japanese powdered green tea). I'm not a 100% certain but the cafe might actually be called ... Matcha :) I had a matcha ice-blended which tastes exactly like green tea ice-cream and my sister had the same thing but with extra azuki beans (red beans) added before they blended the drink. I have an intense dislike for red beans and stay well away from it! My 6 year old nephew also came along and he was surprisingly well behaved throughout :) His treat? Hot chocolate with no matcha in sight.